Flavors from Afar

The internet at my homestay stopped functioning so I have update my blog while at the University.

Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday were spent trying the local cuisine of Bilbao. Taking advantage of the cheap price of fruits here, I have been purchasing and eating paraguays daily. I have never had paraguays before but I've found the flavor and texture to be a cross between a nectarine and a peach. Extremely juicy and moderately sweet, they've become my favorite fruit while in Spain.

Paraguay (looks like an apple, tastes like a peach

Tuesday, I explored the local restaurants and shops around my university. My companions that day were Barbara and Emily, who guided me to a German-Spanish fusion restaurant their Spanish teacher had recommended. I can say for sure the atmosphere wasn't anything I've seen before. German flags adorned the ceiling and Spanish soccer memorabilia cluttered the walls. As for the food, Barbara and I had the "menu del dia," mine of which consisted of potato salad, tuna fish, and chocolate cake.

German-Spanish Restaurant

My companions for the afternoon

It may be useful to note that a "menu del dia" can be found at most restaurants and consists of three to four courses for a fixed price. There are usually several options for the appetizer, two to three options for the entree, and a few options for dessert. The foods I ordered were relatively common dishes that could easily be found in America; however, certain flavors stood out as distinct.

The potato salad was more liquidy than creamy, most likely due to their addition of vinegar... and lots of it. Needless to say, the salad would have been too frustrating to eat with just a fork had I not learned from the Spaniards that bread are really just mops to clean a plate. The tuna fish (which we humorously read as "bonita," which means beautiful, instead of "bonito," which means white tuna fish) was served with a tomato/pepper sauce. The quality wasn't anything too spectacular but the flavor was very tuna intense. The sauce was good, and I've found that the peppers in Spain are really flavorful and lack any spiciness that may distract from such flavor.

Can I get a spoon, please?

Bonito es bonita

Chocolate cake is chocolate cake

 Later that night, I went to this bar/restaurant that my USAC adviser recommended. They're really helpful and many of the students and teachers use them like a concierge service. I told her I wanted to try very traditional Spanish food that I would not be able to get in America. So she recommended Rio-oja, which boasts a large variety of small dishes for customers to try. It was a little bit pricey, but my money went went not only to food but to an experience of culture.

My two dishes for the night were chipirones and morros. Chipirones refers to baby squid, three of which were served in a small dish filled with boiling squid ink. The texture of more tender than most squid I've had yet still maintained that characteristic chew. The sauce was really earthy (but messy) and really delicious. I then ordered morros, which is beef mouth (although, on the menu it read "beef face"). The texture was very gelatinous and furry with a hint of chewiness here and there. The flavor was like beef and the sauce was moderately spicy. I'm not entirely sure what part of the cow's mouth I put in my mouth, although I can't say it reminded me of lengua. If anything, it was more like tripe (stomach) mixed with tendon.

Now doesn't that look appetizing?

Ever wonder what's inside a squid's head?

It's like meat jello

Furry much?

Today, I had planned to go back to Rio-oja for Round 2; however, my afternoon siesta made me tired rather than energetic. The only real highlight of today has been this sandwich place (Eme) my instructor Tim took me to. Although I couldn't get a picture of it (it was literally just a sandwich), the ingredients and flavor were unique. Like I said, the Spanish have great peppers, especially pimento, and a layer of pimento sauce coated one slice of Eme's homemade bread. The rest was ordinary sandwich ingredients (mayo, lettuce, ham, and cheese), but what stood out was the overall flavor. Although I couldn't put an exact flavor to the sandwich, thoughts of Buffalo Wild Wings's chicken wings entered my head... Oh what peppers can do to an ordinary ham & cheese sandwich.

Basque-ing in the Culture Part 3

Sunday, June 18th

Today was an exhausting day filled with utter adventure. Reminiscing over our respective track/cross country days, Kaitlin and I wanted to get in some exercise and we thought actual hiking would be a great way to return to our "glory" days. Nick had told me earlier that the highest peak in all of Bilbao was located on the other bank across from Algorta. I would see this colossal mountain every morning while riding to the University and today was the day I'd conquer it. With careful preparation (and by careful I mean blindly following our noses), Kaitlin and I traveled toward what we assumed was the base of the mountain.

If you look on one of the metro maps, Santurtzi is the terminus of the train track opposite my side of the river bank. We believed this would most likely be the closest stop to the mountain we had seen from across the show; however, we were not the slightest bit sure. Once at Santurtzi, we stopped to get the necessities: bread, meat, and fruit. One of the best things I have come to enjoy about Spain is that all their fruit is grown locally, and unlike the United States, fruit is extremely cheap. We were able to purchase 6 mini apricots, a large apple, and two nectarines for only 1,60 euros (roughly two dollars). We were so amazed by the fruit that we forgot to purchase bottled water.

After purchasing our meal for once we reached the top, we started following the elevation. Climbing to the higher areas of Santurtzi, we came along a path between some construction and a forest. After a wrong detour to what seemed to be a dumping area, a kind Spaniard guided us to the correct path. This path would be the beginning of a five-hour, 4.6 mile (not including the inclination) journey.

Kaitlin and I excited we found a path to climb!

Bilbao in the background gives an idea of our altitude

Look how far we've climbed!!

and look how far we have to go... (the small little candle on top of the cake of earth)

I think we're getting closer!...

To the midpoint.

(Beep-da-beep-da-beep) Your party encountered wild goats.

Kaitlin used run. It was super effective.

So that's what on the other side of the mountain (not Bilbao)

Just a STEEP hike up and we're there

The fort is on the left cliff, the middle beach is Algorta, & the far right beach is Areeta

Almost as good as a panoramic view

Blowing out the candle was anti-climatic

But the view at the peak isn't (not Bilbao pictured)

We found an arrow and followed it off the path...

Only to discover a new path! Onwards to the windmills!

Water droplets caught in a spider web  were common throughout the path

I wonder how many wishes this will grant me?

So yeah... how do we get there? - said Kaitlin as she scratched her head

Cliff, forest, onshore windmills! #DoraTheExplorer

Look at the windmills. Now at the boat. Now back at the windmills. Simply massive.

At this point, I had to put my camera away. The path unexpectedly became very thick with plants that had several relatively thorny appendages. Served with a side of creepy crawly insects and steep/loose footing, the plants were the least of my worries. Unfortunately, I didn't bring my machete to get through the cliff-side jungle so I ended up falling on my butt twice in addition to surviving an attack from some beetle-spider crossbred insect. I got through the experience, which seemed to last forever, with only a few scratches and a temporary rash on my legs. At the bottom of the mountain, we ended up at the side of a road, which after following for a bit, led us to this quaint wharf town.

We're not in Kansas anymore...

Looking back (literally), that mountain wasn't THAT bad

About as close as we could get to the windmills

Knowing that going back the way we came would have been miserable, Kaitlin and I decided to take the bus back to Santurtzi. And what a great opportunity it was to learn the bus system for the first time. After a thirty minute wait or so, the "Bizkaibus" came and took us back to Bilbao (only after an interesting exchange with the non-English-speaking bus driver). Later, I found out the town was known as Zierbana, located 4.6 miles outside of Santurtzi.

The bus ride back was relaxing and the driver kindly dropped us off at the Portugalete metro station. On the train ride back, a hot shower was the only thought going through my head. However, when we got off the train at Algorta, a group of USAC students (including Carrie and Nick) were waiting for the next train to Plentzia. Plentzia, which you may recall, is the terminus of the train track that runs through my side of the river bank. It is located in what I perceive to be the very affluent area, and is a neighborhood I had always meant to explore it one day. What better an opportunity to go than right after an exhausting hike.

Because Plentzia is the most isolated metro stop, the train ride there took roughly 15 minutes. However, the time (and extra money) it took to get there was worth it, as the place had a beautiful beach to offer. After grabbing some snacks (ham flavored lays and some European-based Cheetos product), we hit the beach and enjoyed both the sun and water.

Bridge connecting Plentzia with its metro station

A town with greenery and water

Interesting landscape

Needless to say, the beach was very big...

and crowded

After the long, long day, I decided to end it over dinner with the USAC students. We had burgers in Algorta. In particular, mine had an egg and cured ham on top. They were accompanied with an order of small potato slices (imagine mini-steak fries) served with a ali-oli (garlic mayonnaise). Ironically (and some how foreseen), my homestay family cooked hamburgers that night too.

Great way to end the day.

Basque-ing in the Culture Part 2

Saturday, June 16th

Today was the USAC-led excursion to other hotspots in the Basque Country. The Basque Country comprises of a small segment of Northeastern Spain and Southwestern France and maintains a unique culture and language of its own. The Basque Country has three historic regions (Biscay, Gipuzkoa, and Alava) and I have found that each one has its own variations of the way they spell things in Basque. Bilbao is the capital of the Biscay Province, easily recognizable by the word "Bizkaian" that can be found all over the city.

The USAC administrators decided to take the students (at least those who showed up to their respective bus stop this morning) to San Sebastian, which is the capital of the Gipuzkoa Province. San Sebastian is another option offered by USAC to study abroad and the city maintains a sort of rivalry with Bilbao. Along the way, we stopped in Saint Jean de Luz, which is a small harbor town on the French side of the Basque Country.

I may not be able to read it, but I sure can take a picture of it

Different style of architecture in this part of the Basque Country

They showed us around the town before letting us loose to explore on our own. Some of the stops we toured were the market, the main shopping street, and the beach.

Basque/French Market

Would you like some cheese with your cheese?

Main shopping street of the town

Smooth sand and clean water = perfect beach

Live portrait painting by a local artist

The wharf at the heart of the town

The French detour was a nice change to the usual Spanish perception I get of the Basque Country. About a thirty minute ride back south, we finally arrived in San Sebastian. The overall feeling of the city was much different than Bilbao. People walked slower, the streets were larger, and it accommodations to tourists were much more evident.

My first view of San Sebastian

Several street performers catering to tourists

Same narrow walkways; not-so-same high-fiving sheep

The USAC admins walked us to this restaurant, where we would be exposed to a nice three course meal, consisting of a fresh paella appetizer, a chicken and fries entree, and a delicate orange creme desert. Needless to say, it has been some of the best food I've had yet in my stay.

Our Resident Director Ibon taking pictures of the USAC group

Probably the best dish I've had yet (paella)

Because of the rainfall that afternoon, we couldn't go hiking like Ibon had planned. Instead, we visited an aquarium and had coffee at a small street-side cafe.The aquarium was focused a lot on Spain's history of whale-hunting. It showcased several miniature exhibits as well as a variety of live sea creatures, some of which were the largest I have ever seen.

Outside of the aquarium

Miniature replication of the San Sebastion dock

Minature replication of whale hunting

Suspended skeleton of a whale

The actual tusk of a Narwhal

Coffee with the USAC group to end a long day